Porsche Design 1919 Globetimer UTC watch hands-on experience
The main new watch released by German Porsche Design at the Baselworld 2019 is the Porsche Design 1919 Globetimer UTC. Germans generally prefer to use the term "UTC" (Coordinated Universal Time) rather than Greenwich Mean Time ("GMT"), which is a matter of style, but in reality, they are the same thing. Porsche Design didn’t want to just release a GMT (UTC) watch in a new era for the brand, but wanted something technically interesting, unique and, of course, functional. The Porsche Design 1919 Globetimer UTC is all that.
Inside the watch is a new movement that Porsche Design calls “in-house.” I believe this is an exclusive movement made just for them, called the WERK 04.110 movement, which relies on modules placed on top of a base movement. The WERK 04.110 operates at 4 Hz, has a 38-hour power reserve (a bit thin for a watch in this price range today), and includes local time with AM/PM indicator window, date hand, and second 24-hour time - The zone indicator hand can be adjusted in either direction using the buttons on the case.
The 1919 Globetimer UTC is ideal as a travel watch due to its ability to adjust the UTC hand to "East" or "West" depending on the direction you are traveling. While bidirectional GMT watches are not new, they are relatively uncommon and each one is a little different. Regular GMT/UTC watches usually allow the wearer to adjust the 24-hour hand in only one direction. Each time you press the pusher on the side of the 1919 Globetimer UTC case, the UTC hand moves a full hour in one direction or the other. Unless you're going somewhere with a 30-minute time zone, this is pretty much all the travel watch functionality you'll need when you're trying to determine the time in two different time zones simultaneously.
Standard complications from Porsche Design include a small window at 9 o'clock that serves as a day/night (AM/PM) indicator for the main time zone. This helps the wearer better adjust the main time to work in harmony with the UTC hand. The dial also indicates the date via hands on the main dial. With this hand, the main handle of the 1919 Globetimer has a full five hands. This is not a record per se, but it is very rare and another interesting story about this timepiece.
Porsche Design comments on two other features of the WERK 04.110 movement that are worth mentioning. First, adjusting the UTC time does not have a negative impact on the performance of the movement, i.e. it does not affect the accuracy of the main time. In some watches, the regulating system pauses or is a little hindered when operating functions. Porsche Design has made it clear that operating the UTC complication does not affect timekeeping accuracy. Additionally, the movement is Cosc-Chronometer certified, adding extra value and a guarantee of timed performance.
The basis of the Globetimer UTC series is the still fresh Porsche Design 1919 case. Porsche Design originally introduced it to create a more unique look. The 1919 was designed to be a watch that instantly communicates “Porsche Design” to onlookers when worn on the wrist. Of course, this will take a few years and will depend on whether the watch can provide a unique visual experience. A lot of this has to do with the 1919 case, which has seen a bit more wear than its 42mm wide size would suggest. This is due to the "one-piece" cut lug structure that protrudes from the case and attaches itself to the belt or bracelet. With such prominent lugs and the nearly 15mm thickness of the 1919 case, the Porsche Design 1919 Globetimer UTC is best suited for medium to large wrists.
Is the watch made of titanium? Of course it is - this is Porsche Design we're talking about. In fact, in 2019, Porsche Design also released an all-18K rose gold version of the 1919 Globetimer UTC with a black dial. Other models include blue, brown and black dials, most with matte beaded titanium dials. Only the blue version comes with a matching Porsche Design titanium strap, while the other models come with a thick “genuine Porsche automotive” leather strap.
Now, the overall quality and construction of Porsche Design is truly impressive. Details on the 1919 Globetimer UTC include a polished titanium bezel and some angles on the pushers. The textured crown is both beautiful and comfortable to hold. The dial is eye-catching and legible, although it doesn't immediately strike you as new or unique. What I really like about the 1919 Globetimer UTC is that you really get the sense that this is a modern designed product, but one that has been produced based on a long tradition of expertise and style that feels very similar to the best cars today . Kind of like a Porsche car? Porsche Design wants to think so.
Speaking of Porsche cars, Porsche Design (part of the same group of companies) has become increasingly closely associated with the automotive part of the brand. It's a bit of a departure from the mentality of a few years ago, which made Porsche design feel very independent. In addition to the various Porsche Design watches that are actually targeted at specific Porsche owners, we're also starting to see more design philosophy overlap between Porsche Design watches and the German company's world-popular vehicles, such as the 911 series.
The back of the 1919 Globetimer UTC case has a handy chart to help you know which time zone you should be in based on your travels. (It uses a reference city.) This is helpful, no doubt - but as a watch enthusiast I'd like to see a view of the movement here. For me, the best version is the one with the blue dial and matching titanium bracelet, but if it matches your wardrobe and skin tone, the brown version is really eye-catching.
Jacobs & Co. Astronomy In 2016, Jacob & Co. launched the Astronomia, a revolutionary timepiece with unheard-of complications and proportions. The house of fine watchmaking and fine jewelry housed a vertically rotating movement in a 47mm gold case with a sapphire baseband and a satellite frame with four arms.
One is a biaxial tourbillon, another is a rotating dial fitted with a differential to keep it upright, one has 288 facets of Jacob's-cut diamonds representing the moon, and the fourth is a magnesium globe.
All four arms rotate on their own axes and a central axis as they orbit within the case in 20 minutes. Incidentally, this creates a third axis of rotation for the tourbillon cage.
With no crown, no central hands, the Astronomia has nothing in common with any other timepiece on earth. From the moment it took off from the Jacob & Co. launch pad, it set new standards in terms of high complications and showmanship.
Subsequent iterations and changes have sped up to 10 minutes per rotation, then 5 minutes, and a series of changes in complications, design and size.
Playful watches that seem like roulette wheels are nothing brand new.
Recent for example the Jacob & Co Astronomia Casino Roulette Skeletal system (worn on the wrist associated with Canadian rapper Drake within 2020).
If that is a little rich for your bloodstream, there's a Toff London Roulette Wheel watch.
You lose the three-axis tourbillon, gold skeleton dial, magnesium globe and 288 tasks of diamonds that spin over a wheel, but that probably makes playing casino video games a little easier.
The new Astronomia Casino features a time-only central dial between the spinning wheel as well as its jump ball.
It still has the tourbillon, but this time on the underside from the 44mm polished rose gold watch.
The steering wheel is set to turn by a big pusher on the left side of the case, however setting the time and turning the new manual JCAM51 motion (with a 72-hour energy reserve) is done from the back side of the watch.
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Black and white ceramic Zenith Defy Classic Fusalp Two alpine stars join forces for a capsule collection.
Collaborations between luxury brands and fashion brands have proliferated over the past few years. Now it's Zenith and Fusalp's turn to jump on the fashion train with two distinct capsule collections of watches and clothing. The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton monochrome black and white ceramic watch is launched at the same time as the skiwear collection.
Fusalp's story is closely related to the Alps and French skiing. Born in Annecy in 1952, the brand has made a name for itself by revolutionizing skiwear, creating the first technical stirrup trousers worn by the French ski team in the 1960s. Celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, the Fusalp is not only stylish, but also innovative. Regarding this unique cooperation, Zenith CEO Julien Tornare (Julien Tornare) commented: "This is an exciting new partnership for Zenith, and it is very close to us. heart. Fusalp is more than a fashion house, it is an innovator. Their never-ending quest to produce technical and stylish garments is fully relevant to Zenith."
For this capsule collection, Zenith and Fusalp opted for the sporty-chic Defy Classic watch, available in black or white ceramic. The modern design of the Defy comes in a versatile 41mm size. The vibrant case is all about layering and contrasting lines, with a raised circular bezel set on a slightly angular tonneau-shaped base. The domed sapphire crystal has anti-reflective treatment on both sides and is water resistant to 100 meters.
The Defy Classic Fusalp features a new skeletonized dial, allowing a glimpse of the movement's structure. Its pattern combines the Zenith five-pointed star logo with the snowflake pattern integrated into its design. On the periphery of the dial, luminescent facetted scales complement the outer scale ring. These seem to float over the dial, adding to the sense of depth. The red, white and blue tricolor is another nod to Fusalp as one of the brand's recurring design elements. The date is displayed at 6 o'clock and blends perfectly with the complication - the entire skeletonized date wheel is actually visible behind the dial.
Inside the Defy Classic Fusalp is the self-winding Elite 670 SK movement, which has been a staple of the Zenith movement range for many years. This modern skeleton movement features a silicon escape wheel and lever. It has a diameter of 25.60 mm, runs at 4 Hz and has a power reserve of 40 hours. The Elite movement can also be seen through the exhibition caseback (printed with the Fusalp logo and the title "one of 100" or "one of 300", depending on the version). It is equipped with a star-shaped oscillating weight, and the satin finish contrasts with the dark gray movement.
The Zenith Defy Classic Fusalp comes with a matching colored rubber strap that blends perfectly with the case. For collaboration, it has a fabric-like texture made of concentric rectangles. It is secured by a folding clasp.
In anticipation of winter, Fusalp has also designed a men's and women's skiwear capsule collection exclusively around watches. The sporty-chic Fusalp x Zenith Ski Jacket has a cool trick up its sleeves—literally. Designed for the occasion, their 'Storm Cuff' sleeves have a zippered opening to allow wearing and viewing of your watch between the shell layer and the soft fine knit fabric underneath.
TECH SPECIFICATIONS – ZENITH DEFY CLASSIC FUSALP LIMITED EDITION Case: 41 mm diameter x 10.75 mm height - white or black ceramic case - antireflective sapphire crystal with double-sided AR coating, sapphire case back - screw down crown - water resistant to 100 meters Dial: Skeleton dial with special snowflake star design - with SLN faceted applied hour markers - with SLN faceted hands Movement: Manufacture Caliber Elite 670 Skeleton - Automatic movement - 25.60 mm - 27 jewels - 187 components - 4Hz or 28,800 vibrations/hour - 50 hours power reserve - Hours, minutes, seconds and date Strap: White or black rubber strap with folding clasp Reference: White 49.9000.670-2/02.R796 Black 49.9000.670-1/22.R797
Bell & Ross has added a new snazzy model to their BR 03-94 lineup, which they call the Multimeter. Multimeters, however, utilize color to evoke the time-measuring instruments of sports.
An extension to a time-tested and popular watch is always a risky proposition, and the design team at Bell & Ross has succeeded once again. At first glance, the watch looks stylish, and perhaps interesting considering the multi-colored dial...a bit reminiscent of the rainbow on the Apple Watch. But looking deeper, color is a useful measurement that can be applied to the BR 03-94 movement. This watch is basically similar to the BR 03-94 A521 Alpine F1 Edition and BR 03-94 Patrouille de France, but with a black ceramic case. The main difference is the dial.
The case remains the BR 03 case that has stood the test of time. This rounded square case has a very modern look and feel, especially when made in ceramic. But the dial is where the fun happens.
The movement is still the BR-CAL.301, which is based on the ETA 2894-2 and the Dubuis-Depraz chronograph module and is widely used in Bell & Ross chronographs. A 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and a central chronograph second hand improve legibility.
The BR 03-94 multimeter is a chronograph. These sports watches are designed to measure short periods of time. They are equipped with a large independent central hand that can be started, stopped and reset. Chronographs also use a tachymeter scale to measure speed.
Originally, these watches were used for:
aviation. They allow pilots to prepare their flight plans. They are also used to define the position of the onboard aircraft. The Navy calculates the position of ships at sea. drug. Some models are specially developed for doctors. They allow you to keep an accurate pulse on your pulse. Motorsport, especially determining the speed of a car.
Thus, the chronograph function allows for multiple measurements; the BR 03-94 multimeter brings them all together on the dial. This particular model can measure, among other things, speed, number of breaths and even heartbeat. It is the "Swiss Army Knife" of athletes.
Cockpit as inspiration
The new BR 03-94 multimeter features the iconic "circle in square" shape of the iconic cockpit clock. Created in 2005, this watch has a very graphic case that has become a design reference. The 42mm diameter of the BR 03-94 multimeter makes it ideal for everyday use. The multi-coloured dial of this sophisticated chronograph is eye-catching.
Informative dial for multiple measurements
Like all stopwatches, the BR 03-94 multimeter is used to measure short times. This novelty has proven to be multifunctional, as it combines all the information indicated by the chronograph. The BR 03-94 multimeter represents the ultimate instrument. It can be used for running, cycling and driving. With this novelty, Bell & Ross is targeting a large number of athletes.
Two additional dial counters complete the timing indication. A chronograph minute at 9 o'clock. Permanent seconds hand displayed at 3 o'clock. To maintain optimum readability, the watchmakers opted for double-weighted hands. Their balancing act makes up for the lack of exponents. Of course, the BR 03-94 multimeter also displays the hours and minutes via a central hand and displays the date in the aperture. Its 60-minute chronograph scale is usually located on the dial's flange.
one color, one function
Aesthetically, the spectacular BR 03-94 multimeter is visually appealing. This unique graphic chronograph is very pleasing to the eye. Its color dial utilizes the color distinction principle of various indications displayed on the aircraft instrument panel. The matte black ceramic case contrasts with the striking dial full of information. To maintain readability and functionality, Bell & Ross has chosen specific colors for each information category.
– The pulse meter scale is orange. It only operates on the right side of the watch face. – Gas scales are painted dark green. It also only operates on the right side of the dial. – Choice of light green, light grey and white for the three tachymeter scales. They are all over the dial. Dates are shifted between noon and 1 (usually between 4 and 5) for better readability. In this position, it does not hide any indication.
The original BR 03-94 multimeter is powered by the self-winding BR-CAL.301 movement. This extraordinary mechanism is perfect for this spectacular chronograph. At first glance, the operation of this watch may seem complicated. In fact, it's not as complicated as it looks. To fully understand it, one must refer to the small user manual inserted to the left of the dial. It is easy to understand that it provides 5 vehicle scales.
It defines them in terms of three basic data: the base unit ("base"), the function ("function"), and the unit of measurement ("unit"). – Pulse meter counts heartbeats. It is expressed in 15 beats per minute.
The asthma meter monitors breathing and expresses it as expiratory volume per minute. It is expressed on the basis of 5 breaths. Three tachometers measure speed in km/h. Their measurement bases vary and are based on three different measurement units: 100 m, 250 m or 1 km. The first corresponds to a jogger (running), the second to a cyclist (bike), and the third to a pilot (sports car). Actually, the stopwatch is started by pressing the top button.
The big hand is triggered and the cycle begins. Press the top button again to stop. Hand cut 5 color scales indicating heartbeat and respiration. Speed is the main indication, read on three scales according to different units. The classic chronograph function remains.
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Specifications limited edition
Movement: BR-CAL.301. Automatic machinery.
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o'clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock, central chronograph seconds. Tachymeter, Pulse Meter and Asthma Meter.
Case: 42mm wide. 12.80mm thick. Matte black ceramic.
Dial: Black. Indicators for 3 tachometer areas, 1 pulse meter area and 1 asthma meter area. The minute track is painted white on the flange. Hour and minute hands coated with Super-LumiNova®.
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Waterproof: 100 meters.
Strap: Perforated black rubber and super elastic black synthetic fabric.
UR-112 Aggregat is the newest member of the URWERK special project series, a laboratory that provides watch freedom and encourages stupidity. URWERK co-founder and watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and art director and designer Martin Frei started this new adventure from a blank page. There is also a sketchbook full of ideas. UR-112 Aggregat is inspired by dreams of new mechanical challenges. Technicality is center stage. The beauty of UR-112 lies in the complexity of its gears and almost fanatical assembly accuracy. UR-112 Aggregat heralds a masterpiece in the watchmaking world.
Aggregat is a summary of 25.5 grams of distillation technology, providing a fully digital time display from a few hours to a few seconds. For watchmakers who bet on micrometers, this is a double or no challenge.
Starting from the hours and minutes, each is displayed on triangular prisms running under transparent cylinders. These cylinders look like floating mechanisms that can be appreciated through crystals.
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Tudor Pelagos history Tudor Pelagos was launched in 2012 and came out the same year as the first Heritage Black Bay watch. These are two outstanding examples of their genres. They were released at the same time, with the same movement, but with completely different terms of reference. Black Bay divers are designed for lovers of all classic things, and there is nothing wrong with it. On the other hand, the name Tudor Pelagos is derived from ancient Greek, meaning "open or deep sea"-for a younger and more energetic audience, it is a pure sports car with a vibrant design.
The Submariner is water resistant to 500 meters, has a diameter of 42 mm, and is forged from titanium—the only part of Tudor or Rolex that used metal on the entire case (although the case back was still steel)—Pelagos was an obvious from the beginning The signs indicate that this eternally eclipsed brother brand intends to announce its existence with some authority.
Therefore, Tudor Pelagos may have all these different elements that every dive watch must have in order to guarantee its name: unidirectional bezel, waterproof case, high-contrast dial, etc. But it offers them in a refreshing style, making it stand out in the most crowded areas of horology. The first generation was powered by the ETA 2824, which is one of the most widely used third-party movements in history and a powerful engine.
The RM 50-04 Touro Wheel Double Secondary Code Table Kiki-Recy is equipped with a technical movement, which is equipped with a second needle timetry and only 7 grams of 5-stage titanium metal and carbon fiber TPT movement. Combined with these two complexities, Richard Mille Study has improved the teeth contour on the hair strip box and the second round of gears. Seconds the second system allows the timing code table to be in the timing status with the help of the stopwatch, and the second needle can stop at 4 o'clock. The button at 10 o'clock will reset the pointer. The torque indicator provides information about the hair tension, so that the timing function of the movement can be optimized. When the crown is pulled out, the function indicator displays - similar to the gearbox of the car - the string, neutral, and manual setting position.
15.12.2023 10:15
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